1. Where not to miss:
PHONG NHA NATIONAL PARK
Travelling in Vietnam is pretty easy. Since the country is quite narrow, you either go from North to South or vice versa. Many a traveller misses out on Phong Nha National Park as it is off the main thoroughfare and the train ticket route. Even if you didn’t think you liked caves, you’ll be pleasantly surprised. How to get there? You can get a night bus from Hanoi, DaNang or practically any major stop off in Vietnam. Expect there to be loud Asian karaoke all night long and the chair beds to be slightly too small (for a 170cm person). Where to stay? Easy Tiger is a backpacker haven. There are also farm stays for those wishing for something quieter and away from the backpacker scene. What to do? Explore caves and cycle around.
2. Where I wish I went:
I was in Northern Vietnam in early December, their winter. My thin leggings and hoodie were hardly cutting the 16 degrees celcius dull weather in Hanoi and Halong Bay, never mind going further north into the mountains of 4 degrees. It’s supposed to be glorious and enchanting on a good day though, which are hit and miss at that time of year. What to do? Get your own private local guide to bring you on hikes with amazing views over tea plantations.
3. Where I didn’t mind missing:
The main attraction to the Cuchi Tunnels is getting to squeeze into the tiny tunnels that were used during wartimes. As a verging claustrophobic, I was happy enough to see other friends photos and read up about them online.
4. Where I wouldn’t go again:
An unusual displaced city where all signs are also in Russian and you’ll be sure to eat in a Russian restaurant. The market wasn’t anything to write home about with cheap looking knock off sports gear.
5. Where one day is plenty:
Go to Mui Ne for the sand dunes and the fishing village and nothing else, unless you want to peruse the resort lifestyle where a man-made beach is erected above the beach as the tide is too close. What to do? Go on a half-day tour, take fabulous photos on the sand dunes and be done.
6. Where to get custom clothes made:
It’s pretty self-explanatory. Streets and streets are lined with shops ready to make clothes to fit only you! Where to stay? If you want to meet backpackers stay at DK’s House Backpackers. If you just happen to be there for Christmas (like I was), stay somewhere fancy and then book in for the Christmas dinner to make lots of new friends. What to do? Rent bikes to check out the beach, visit the island over the walk bridge, check out the markets and eat some great food.
7. Where to spend New Year’s Eve:
A bustling city with lots of nightlife and motorbike-filled roads. Where to stay? The multistory Vietnam Inn Saigon has it’s own rooftop bar so you’ll be sure to make lots of friends and see the new years fireworks from a height. What to do? Wander the streets seeing the sights, visit the War Remnants Museum, and check out the indoor market.
8. Where to challenge yourself:
If you see photos of someone in Vietnam with a hard hat and harnesses on then they are sure to be in Dalat. It is the must-go place to try out canyoning, ie. Abseiling down and jumping off cliffs. Even those with fears of heights, myself included, are able to muster up the courage for a day in your swimsuit. Where to stay? Dalat Family Hostel. A bit weird and cosy but you get used to it.
9: Where to find paradise:
A tranquil island off the southern end of Vietnam. What to do? Rent scooters and explore the island visiting the beaches of turquoise water, the pearl farms, and eat a fresh fish dinner at the market.
10. Where to find a Natural Wonder:
The best option is to just book a cruise trip and let them take it from there guiding you through the karst limestone island landscape. You can be lucky enough to book a cheaper trip in the winter and end up on a more expensive one because there weren’t enough people for yours (this totally happened to us).
11. Where to drink 19 cent beer on a tiny plastic stool and get an amazing Banh Me from a food cart:
A city full of wonder. Fully grown men alike sit on those plastic chairs. Where to stay? There’s lots to choose from. Just read up the reviews to find the one that best suits you. Sometimes the backpacker ones are too party party! What to do? There is so much to do. (Another blog post coming about the wonders of Hanoi.).
12. Where to see the “real” Vietnam:
MEKONG DELTA (CAN THO)
We took the long way back to Saigon from Phu Quoc, via the Mekong Delta. The bus was squishy and the view out the window echoed the poverty of Vietnam. Rubbish lined the streets and the tin shacks (houses) lined the river. The people at a bus stop were desperate for our custom. What to do? Go to the floating markets where boats line up beside you selling their wares by holding them out on a stick. They’ll cut the pineapple up on the spot with artistic precision. Many of them live on the boats year-round, moving with the weather.
13. Where to have a unique experience:
HUE TO HOI AN MOTORBIKE TRIP
If you want to have a taste of the scooter/motorbike craze then book a motorbike with a company in Hue or vice versa. They allow a rental one-way and take your luggage for you and deposit at your destination. If you want to live by the rules or are too nervous to drive, get an Easy Driver to drive you instead. Be prepared to see wonderful sights, but to also drive through a day of rain (if it’s winter), lose your travel mates after the first hour, and breakdown on top of mountains thus relying on the generosity of non-English speaking locals to help you out (yes, this happened…TWICE!).
*HANDY INFO ABOUT VIETNAM*
It was in DaNang that I found out about the strict hostel rules in Vietnam. In every hostel you hand in your passport and don’t receive it back until you leave. At first it seems daunting as it is your gateway to the rest of the world but you gently become accustomed to it and are glad you don’t need to worry about where it is at all times. All that will happen is you will leave the country with a passport cover full of small stickers with all the dorm room numbers you stayed in. The reason they take your passport is that they need to have all foreigners accounted for and send a list to the police every night.
You will also find Vietnamese hostels stricter in their rules about guests only allowed on the premises. There are hefty fines (5,000,000 vdn) so best to stay where your friends are staying if you want to chill at your hostel.
If you go to the North of Vietnam in winter you are going to be cold. That’s if you’ve come from hot sunny climes and don’t have appropriate clothing. There are always cheap Northface knock-offs you can buy in Hanoi but not ideal if you’re on a budget and don’t want to drag winter clothes around with you in your rucksack for another few months.
Where to start your trip from
Vietnam is pretty easy to travel around. You either go from North to South or vice versa. North to South suited me better as Cambodia would be my next stop. A rare flight while backpacking is perfectly acceptable, especially if it will save time. Vietnam Airlines was a glorious, roomy, clean experience and at 60 euro one-way from DaNang in central Vietnam to Hanoi in the North, it wasn’t bad.
Be prepared for Western hostel workers to plug every package trip going and dodge as many as you can. Though you’ll find Halong Bay can be a whole lot easier if you book with an agency. Still avoid booking with your pushy hostel unless booze cruises are you thing and you don’t want the full experience of backpacking because they organise everything for you.
All information as of 8 January 2015.